Segundo Muelle – Peruvian Restaurant

Chef Daniel Manrique
Casual upscale Peruvian

Phone: (507) 391-9234
Calle Crisantemos No 16, on the corner at calle 68

Food: ****
Ambience: ****1/2
Service: ****1/2

Peruvian gastronomy is popular in Panama City. The combination of flavors found in Peru’s cuisine is the result of four continents blending. The country, and hence its food, is made up of Inca, Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, French and British descendants. The settlers continued using the original ingredients used by the Incas, creating what is considered to be one of the great cuisines of the world.

Chef Daniel Manrique, founder and owner of the Peruvian chain “Segundo Muelle”, was in Panama for a few days recently and The Visitor caught up with the busy chef and showman to learn about his restaurants, his passions and his plans for the future. “We have been received very well in Panama!” he said. His restaurant opened in the San Francisco neighborhood around eight months ago.

The interior of the restaurant is delightful: White walls accented with natural wood and welldressed waiters. The restaurant is neither formal nor pricey, but Panama City’s dining community maintains an upscale feel in the dining room, just with the dress and composure of the restaurant’s patrons.

“It has always been about the flavor and the quality here,” said Daniel “Never about too much presentation.” The chef insisted on preparing a round of pisco sours table side. His secret recepie for Peru’s signature cocktail is simple: Three parts “quebrante” (a Peruvian grape liqueur), one part lemon, one part “jarabe de goma” (a sugar reduction, a sweet syrup) and one part egg white. Shake with ice. The egg white does not affect the flavor or consistency of the drink, but it does create its own foam that tops off the drink. Some establishments add a dash of cinnamon at this stage, but we simply raised our chilled glasses. Salud!
The chef insisted on preparing a round of pisco sours table side.

The Piqueo Tres Cebiches ($24.00) has three different kinds of ceviche: “Segundo Muelle”, the house signature blends Peruvian peppers (rocoto, ají) in the leche de tigre (base marinade for all Peruvian ceviche) with fine-sliced red onions. “Mariscos a tres ajíes” is a mix of octopus, shrimp and squid in a creamy red sauce made with peppers. The chef explained that the spicy peppers are boiled and roasted before becoming part of the sauce, taking out nearly all the heat but leaving the flavors. The squid was delicate, fresh and tender. “Tradicional”, as the name implies, is made with white fish and lime juice.

Four main courses were shared, at Chef Daniel’s recommendation. Salteado Oriental ($12.50) is his favorite dish. Distinctively Asian, the deep fried fish, squid and shrimp are tossed with vegetables and topped with toasted sesame seeds. The light, delicate dish is served with white rice. Tacu tacu con lomo salteado ($16.00) is a very traditional dish. The tacu tacu is a mass made of pureed beans and rice. It was served with cubed beef and large slices of roasted red pepper.

Next we enjoyed the Arroz Thai ($16.00). This simple and delicious dish features prawns and beef served in white rice, accompanied with fried egg white. The simplicity of the dish was refreshing as each flavor stood on its own. Finally, in great contrast to the previous dish was Picante de Mariscos ($13.00). This dish combines shrimp, octopus and squid in a flavorful, creamy sauce that has lots of Peruvian peppers in it, with just a little kick of spice. It was served with white rice.

Dessert was the best. Classic Peruvian Suspiro $($($($( comes served in a martini glass. It is made with a combination of condensed milk and evaporated milk and has a caramel flavor and thick consistency. It comes topped with merengue. The portion is enourmous, almost too much for the four of us. Our group exchanged guilty glances as our spoons continued diving into the delicous treat. “Suspiro” means “sigh” in Spanish.

Chef Daniel gave us a sneak peek at the new menu he will be rolling out in mid-February. He has added a few new items and increased the pictures. The new menu is a three ring binder, with a full color photograph of each item. He has also brought in a new sous chef to oversee the kitchen as he travels between his restaurants in Peru, Mexico and Panama. “Quality here has been great, but we are going to kick it up a notch!” said the chef.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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