One of my favorite restaurants in Panama is the Cerro Brujo Gourmet Restaurant in Volcan in the Chiriqui Province of Panama. This restaurant is a treasure not known to many because its remote location, but for all those interested in knowing the country of Panama, I suggest not miss going to this restaurant if you are in the area of Chiriqui.

The first time I went to Cerro Brujo was about 5 years ago and fell completely in love with the place. It is a charming cottage with a garden that any gardener would envy. The land of the Baru Volcano, which can be seen from the property, is one of the most fertile land in the world. From this land grows many of the ingredients that Patricia Miranda, the owner and chef, uses in recipes.

As I drank a glass of wine while waiting for us to get our meal I had the pleasure of talking with the chef, Patricia. I was curious of the name of the restaurant and she me the story that when she did memory tests with friends and they forgot all the names she suggested and was drawn by a hill in the village of Volcan called Cerro Brujo (witch hill) and that was the name that remained in everyone’s mind.

Patricia and her restaurant were recently published in the La Prensa Newspaper of Panama, in their A la Mesa (to the table) supplement.

Cerro Brujo Gourmet Restaurant in Volcan Chiriqui

In late 1999, Patricia Miranda opened her restaurant in Volcan, Chiriqui.

In her 51 years, Patricia is satisfied with her achievements. Cerro Brujo Gourmet gives her free rein to her creativity as the restaurant has a menu that changes at least twice a week to incorporate all available fresh ingredients.

Nestled between the exuberance of a beautiful garden that always gives visitors a warm beauty, Cerro Brujo Gourmet is a place that makes us feel in that vacation cottage we all dream of having.

A good cut of beef is never absent, and next to it we find any fish or seafood, as well as a soup and a salad. The aroma of homemade bread always tempts the senses.

Patricia’s culinary experience is empirical and when she gave started with her son Diego Emilio. It was a great way to spend time together in the years when her work schedule was really intense.

Patricia grew up in Volcan and when choosing where to live, she felt the call of this delightful place where you can do what you love and live as you like.

Pictures of the dishes:

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Patricia Miranda Allen
Cerro Brujo Gourmet
Volcan, Chiriqui
Opening hours: 12:00 noon to 9:00 p.m. For reservations call 6669-9196. Reservations are suggested for clients with special requests or groups over 4 people.

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When my friend Luis called to tell me that he and his wife were opening a new restaurant, I got excited. I know how committed his wife, Zena is to culinary excellence and how delicious her food is. Their location, on Calle Uruguay, across from Madame Chang’s is great. They’ve got valet parking and even a great club, ‘Urbano’ on the second floor. I got the chance to try their new restaurant Tomate y Amor. The name translates to Tomates and Love in English. It doesn’t translate perfectly… but those are two red, juicy things, aren’t they?

On their third floor, a new rooftop patio club called ‘Penthouse’ is under construction. It will be open this coming summer. (In Panama, summer is from January to April) Get ready for South Beach chic with private cigar boxes, a very upscale ambience and a few things that Panama has never seen before in a club. (I can’t tell you yet…)

Comfort food is the longest lasting trend in the food business and Tomate y Amor has brought it to Panama. People want more than a few sprigs of vegetable shavings and a dot of sauce with two bites of very pretty, but not filling food. At Tomate y Amor, you’ve got to try the thick and juicy rib eye burger, the sizzling steaks, handmade pastas or marinated, grilled ribs. All of the meats and paninis (grilled sandwiches) are cooked over a spiced, wood-fired grill.

When you walk in, the first thing you’ll notice is the large, glassed in kitchen and all of the beautiful art. The kitchen is set in a jungle theme and the white clad chefs move like a well oiled team. The restaurant is also an art gallery and is very tastefully appointed with an upscale, classy feel. I spent about the first twenty minutes enjoying succulent appetizers with good wine, reveling in watching my dinner get made and really enjoying the splendid art.

Imagine a night that starts with a sumptuous meal at Tomate y Amor, then heads upstairs to Urbano for some after dinner drinks and fun with your friends. Could it be any better?

Tomate y Amor is open for lunch from 12:00 – 2:30pm and for dinner from 6:30 – 10:30 Monday to Friday. On Saturdays and Sundays, they’re open for lunch and dinner until 11. You can call the restaurant on 265-7256.

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La Posta
Calle 49 at Calle Uruguay, Bella Vista,
Panama City
Reservations: 269-1076
E-mail: http://thepanamanetwork.com
Food: ****1/2
Ambience: *****
Service: *****

La Posta is among the ranks of the best restaurants in Panama. It has a constantly-evolving menu based on fresh ingredients. Service is impeccable. The atmosphere is enhanced by the charm of a sophisticated home. The restaurant is located in the oldest house of Bella Vista, in the Calle Uruguay nightlife district. American owner David Hennessey sees that his high standards are met at every step of the way, from valet to the check.

Pulpo Tres Formas – Octopus Three Forms ($9.50) provided a visually pleasing dish with carpaccio, brocceta and fried octopus, accompanied by two different sauces. The fried version was a little tough, but compensated for because the other two presentations shined. Camarones en Hamaca – Shrimp in Hammock ($8.50) brought a hefty serving of fresh, tender shrimp in a garlic “ajillo” sauce served in a flattened fried plantain hammock. Delicious.The best appetizer by far is Queso Feta al Horno de Leña – Firewood Baked Feta Cheese ($6.50) This has been on the menu for some time and we hope it never goes away (Posta regulars miss the goat-stuffed carimañolas that disappeared from the menu last year). The “Heirloom” Tomato Salad ($8.50) is great, with heart of palm, organic beets, fresh aromatic green arugula and tasty shaved Parmesan cheese in a light vinaigrette. The quotation marks are duly placed on the menu.

For our main course, Atún Aleta Amarilla de Pedasí dos Anjojli – Yellowfin Tuna from Pedasi Sesame Duo ($14.50) came out cooked to perfection. The widegrain steak was crusted in a classic black and white sesame seed presentation and served atop couscous. The Filete de Salmon Atlantico – Atlantic Salmon Fillet ($15.50) was masterfully prepared, the skin crisp and facing upward on a bed of mushrooms, asparagus tips, caramelized onion and ñame puree (ñame is a root vegetable). For my taste, it was overcooked. But I may be the exception in liking my salmon medium to medium rare. However, the fish was still moist, tender and delicious. Atlantic salmon is a cut above what is usually available in town. The Panamanian market is saturated with farm-raised Chilean salmon. True salmon lovers should be advised to request a temperature upon ordering.

Langosta con Risotto – Lobster over Risotto

Steak Frites USA Importado Hangar Steak ($24.50) looked like something out of a Parisian bistro. The well-marinated steak came with French fries, catsup and a small green salad. The meat was cooked to perfection; pink, no blood. We had to try the daily special, Langosta con Risotto – Lobster over Risotto (Market price), an enormous portion of delectable meat served out of the shell over a flavorful risotto containing a medley of rich cheeses. The lobster meat had been simply grilled, an excellent move by the chef. When one’s raw material is of superior quality, the less that’s done, the better.

For dessert, you cannot go wrong with Bailey’s Tres Leches Imperial ($5.00), Panacotta in Strawberry Soup ($4.50) or Torta Caliente de Chocolate Organico
– Hot Organic Chocolate Tort ($5.50). But Balcarce Casera Chocolate con Arequipe – Homemade Chocolat Bacarce with Colombian Dulce de Leche ($5.50)
took the cake. I guess I’m a sucker for Nutella.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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Ave. Justo Arosemena, between 44th and
45th streets, next to Los Arcos Hotel
Tel.: (507) 225-0105/ 0106
Food: **** ½
Ambience: ****
Service: **** ½

Koreena and Cesar Marín are usually present at their small Indian restaurant Masala in Bella Vista. In fact I have never been there when they have not. They greet their many regular customers, which are made up of just as many Panamanians of Indian descent as those who are not, and many foreigners living in Panama who enjoy being spoiled by fantastic Indian food. Some may not know (I didn’t) that the type of food served at Masala, and the grand majority of commercial Indian restaurants throughout the world, hails from northern India, a region that has the best and most distinctly rich flavours.

We tried the house specialty drink, Mango Lassi ($2.00). It is sweet, made with yogurt and mango. When I realized that someone else in the party had ordered a nice bottle of wine, I asked the waitress to pack up my sweet milky drink to go. I never do that, its just not my style. But I realized it was worth stepping out of my box when I drank it for breakfast the next morning. MMM!

We snacked on two types of Samosas, the most common appetizer in India. The breading is stuffed, folded in a triangle and fried. The Sabzi Samosa ($3.25) was filled with vegetables, potatoes, peas and spices and the other, called Gosht Samosa ($3.75), with ground lamb. These morsels came served with four sauces for garnishing, all of them good.

Our main course was accompanied with two generous portions of Sabzi Biryani – Vegetable Rice ($6.75), which is 100% long grain basmati rice with almonds, peas and raisins. It was nice and hot and cooked to perfection. We also had one delicious, soft, fluffy naan bread ($1.25) each.

For the main course we had Gosht Shahi Korma – Royal Curried Lamb ($16.00). This dish is from the northern Muslim part of India, and came in a nice heavy sauce containing butter, cumin and masala (which is a mix of ground spices including cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, black peppers and fenugreek seeds). Such richness can be expected in any Indian dish containing the word “shahi” in its name, which means royal. It was the only meat dish on the table this particular evening because we were eating family-style with a vegetarian, which would be simply impermissible at another restaurant, but at Masala it was just fine.

Baingan Bhartha – Charcoal Smoked Eggplant ($9.00) was next. It had great texture, which is achieved by roasting the eggplant and then mixing it with a paste of cumin seeds, onion, garlic and tomatoes with the masala spice and red chilies powders. It was not gooey or acidic, as some eggplant dishes turn out when they are not prepared correctly. It was very, very good – bangin’.

Sarsoo Ka Saag – Blended Mustard Leaves ($9.00) is not quite a main course, but it was a tremendous accompaniment. This is the most common dish in Punjabi, a place in the far north of India named for where five rivers cross. A lot like spinach, it had great texture and flavours enhanced by the spices and herbs.

Finally, we also had Vegetable Jalfrezi ($9.00). This included cauliflower and other mixed vegetables in curry. It was the most simple dish that we tried and had the least amount of flavour. Not bad at all, but quite overshadowed by the other standout options on the table in my opinion. I had a some more spinach – I mean mustard leaves – while our vegetarian finished off this dish, praising its “simplicity and perfection” with little waves of her hand in the air as she looked toward the ceiling with each bite.

We enjoyed Gulab Jamun for dessert. It is a fried sweet cheese ball, which is really a treated milk, closest to cottage cheese in preparation – but nothing like it. It is golden brown on the outside and white on the inside, served with a sweet syrup. The Masala Tea is the best way to round out a meal here. Made with black tea leaves, its really the cardamom that gives this hot beverage its kick and revitalizes diners after a wonderful experience.

Service is attentive and the small space is ornately decorated with drapes and pillows in rich colours accented with sensual lighting – all that one comes to expect from an Indian restaurant. There is even a private, carpeted section for those who wish to be seated on the floor and really live the experience.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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La Mar Cebicheria Peruana
El Cangrejo, entering the Power Club parking lot
Tel.: (507) 209-3323
Food: *** ½
Ambience: ****
Service: **** ½

The popular restaurant Astrid & Gaston is now “La Mar Cebicheria Peruana”, an upscale yet down-to-earth establishment operated to the strict standards of Chef Gaston Acurio. La Mar is located next to the Power Club Gym in El Cangrejo, offering a laid-back atmosphere. The service remains attentive yet more relaxed under the new brand standards. The food is fresh, well-prepared, abundant and affordable.

A long list of cocktails using pisco, the famous Peruvian liquor, is available. Surf the list if you like, but my recommendation is to stick with the original Pisco Sour, ($5.50 or $3.50 for a half order, because everyone must try). To start, Camarones Laqueados (Lacquered Shrimp), $8.00, can’t be beat. The order brings eight to ten shrimp smothered in a mix of mayonnaise, condensed milk and peanut puree. The candy-like morsels are served warm atop a bed of crunchy “fuansi”, fried rice noodles.

Especial Dorado… mmm.

The Causa Nikei, $6.00, offers up four intricately prepared servings of tuna tartare atop avocado-stuffed “causas”, made of pressed potato paste, this one mixed with lemon and salt. The dish is oozing with a delicious yellow pepper sauce and the flavors combine perfectly. The Anticucho La Mar, $12.00, brought out four tender octopus servings on skewers with chimichurri sauce. Preparing octopus isn’t easy. To get it just right, the meat must be tenderized just to the point before it loses its texture. Here, they have it down to a science.

The kitchen, like much of the restaurant, remains the same as when it was Astrid & Gaston. Diners enjoy a fish-bowl view of the action in the kitchen, which is set behind glass at the center of the main dining room. For our main course, we looked over toward the special board for some guidance. The Especial Macho, $14.00, brings a selection of fish (grouper or corvina depending on what is freshest at the market) topped with mixed seafood in an “aji panca” pepper sauce. All of this atop rough-mashed potatoes.

Next, the Lomo Sateado, $13.00 was another reason to return. It is a simple dish made with cuts of beef fillet, red onion, tomato, parsley and chives which are “salteado” (literally jumped), or “stir fried” and served with white rice on the side. Sometimes new-age restaurants can go overboard in search of the best new way to make a classic dish stand out. It was nice to see the chef keep it inside the lines on this one. Topped with crisp, golden, homemade French fries.

The night’s winner was Especial Dorado. For $9.00, a perfectly-seared, plump fillet of Mahi-Mahi topped with bean sprouts and chives sits in a soy broth with droplets of sesame oil. Simple perfection. It came with fried white rice tossed with asparagus, mushrooms and egg whites.

For dessert, a mixed dish, Degustacion Peruana, $6.00, has it all: Suspiro, the classic Peruvian dessert, Arroz con Leche, this version with diced strawberries, and Picarones (the best of all three), which are like homemade doughnuts, except the batter is made of squash and they are topped with a “raspadura” glaze which compliments them perfectly. If you need a little time for digestion before dessert, have the Chocolate Souflee, $5.00, which takes 15 minutes to prepare.

A selection of wines by the bottle starts at $17, and most are at very reasonable prices. At a restaurant that operates under strict international standards one can expect the best. This is a restaurant where you can feel comfortable walking in the door at 10:55 at night – even though they close at 11:00 – but the customer is always right and at La Mar, they play by the rules.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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Twist Restaurant
Bella Vista, Ave Federico Boyd approaching
Ave Balboa, right hand side
Tel.: (507) 302-7997
Food: ****
Ambience: ****
Service: ****

Twist opened a few years ago when Panama City, along with its restaurants, began to take that big upturn towards becoming an international destination. The city’s eateries became not simply places where you could have a great meal, but took on their own egos and turned in to decorative destination restaurants. Twist is one such spot, where you wouldn’t be surprised to see a photo shoot for a glossy magazine taking place while enjoying your meal.

Greek Salad at Twist Restaurant

Located on the Balboa Avenue end of Federico Boyd, it is tucked into the ground floor of an antique yellow building, on the right hand side before one reaches the Miramar. The owners named their restaurant “Twist” because they wanted to put a “twist” on the traditional restaurant. They have built an original menu which combines something to please any taste, from burgers to thai and from Italian to steaks.

To begin our meal, we shared Langositnos a la Madrileña (Prawns a la Madrileña), $11, which brought three big shrimp in a savory garlic, shallot and cabbage broth with toasty crostini which were great for dipping. The shrimp were plump and fresh. Next, the Ensalada Griega (Greek Salad), $9, was an original take on this classic dish. Instead of finely chopping the ingredients, the chef left them in a large cuts, making a lovely display of the colorful peppers, cucumber and feta cheese. The lemon and oregano dressing was excellent.

But the best appetizer was definitely the Panko Machego (breaded and deep fried Machego cheese; “panko” means “bread crumbs” in Japanese), $8. A great choice for sharing, it came served with a simple and delicious tomato reduction with olive oil and just a little spice. The breading was perfectly crispy and golden brown. We also enjoyed Ceviche Classico (Classic Ceviche), $7. It was well prepared, with a perfect amount of cilantro and the lemon was not overpowering.

For our main course, we first tried the Tartín de Salmon (Salmon Tartín), $8. Perfect for a light lunch, it is a small pan-seared salmon steak atop a crostini with lettuce, tomato and garlic aioli. It came served with a crisp, fresh lettuce salad dressed in a wonderful vinaigrette. Next was the Pato al Tamarindo (Tamarind Duck), $17. Like a traditional teriyaki dish, the meat was cut in thin strips and topped with the sauce, except this tasty duck was topped with sweet tamarind instead. The rice was great, with coconut milk and perhaps another ingredient that made it sweet and tasty.

Then we had the Pollo Cha Cha Cha (Cha Cha Cha Chicken), $13, which was a chicken breast stuffed with basil and feta cheese. The rolled meat came sliced and topped with cherry tomatoes. The simplicity of the chicken was complimented by the tangy cheese. The dish came with a nice salad and waffle fries. The fries, unfortunately, were not made in-house.

With such excellent accompaniments and side dishes reflecting a talented chef at each step of the way thus far, it was disappointing to notice that we were now eating something out of a freezer bag. The restaurant would do well to prepare its own homemade fries. We rounded out our meal with the Entraña Steak (a thick skirt steak cut), $23. The meat was cooked to perfection on the grill and served with chimichurri and steamed vegetables.

Service at Twist is superb. Not only are the waiters attentive, but well-trained. Upstairs is a more recent addition to the restaurant. The second floor lounge-bar is a great spot to take in the view and enjoy the carefully-prepared cocktails and a special appetizer menu for this area. Another notable feature about Twist is that some of the dishes available are Thai. And though we did not try any during this visit, the Pad Thai at Twist all but makes up for the lack of a Thai restaurant in the city.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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Casco Antiguo, next to the Emerald Museum of Plaza Catedral

Reservations: 262-3487
www.renecafe.com

Food: ****
Ambience: ***
Service: ****

A Panamanian culinary affair

The set-menu restaurant called René Cafe has been operating in Casco Antiguo has been operating for two years. Multiple shared servings are served fresh from the open kitchen to diners on the patio or inside the cavernous dining room. The six course dinner is $18.50 and the three course lunch is $8.50.

The open kitchen allows diners to peek at the preparation of their meal at René Cafe in Casco Antiguo.

The meal was harmonious and of good design. Excellent attention to vegetarian needs probably led traveler guidebooks Fodor’s and Lonely Planet to list this ven ue in recommended Panama City dining spots.

The salad was a finely chopped medley of fresh greens, tomatoes, carrots, chayote, red peppers and crisp chives, tossed in a light white wine vinegar dressing. Next, we enjoyed a simple, vegetable filled spring roll which was composed of more dough that actual filling, fried in very clean oil and accompanied by a sweet pineapple sauce.

Ceviche-filled plantains fol lowed shortly. The fried plantain was molded into a perfect cup. The lime-marinated fish was ac companied with lots of red onion, of which the chef could have used a little less, and a hint of cilantro would have rounded out the dish. The flavours up to this point had been subdued rather than bold.
Rene Café is a great place for vegetarians. For each course that contained meat, our vegetarian guests were treated to a special dish, including fried wantons with a passion fruit and mango reduction sauce, spring rolls, cabbage and eggplant stir fry and thick sliced onions and peppers with guiso sauce.

When the ricotta-filled ravioli in homemade red sauce full of diced vegetables arrived, it became clear that the chef designed this menu with a plan. The cadence and development of flavours were rising to a crescendo. A corn tor tilla topped with chicken tasajo (smoked meat, usually pork) in a sofrito sauce made of onions, peppers and seasoning brought a distinctly Panamanian flare to the table.

Rounding out the appetizer portion of our meal was a tasty octopus skewer in ginger sauce. Three meats were served with de licious pineapple vegetarian rice with vegetables. Fresh sliced car rots had been mixed in to the rice just before serving, giving the dish textural breadth. The first meat was a white fish topped in a white béarnaise sauce with dill. The fish was fresh, tender and framed well in the sauce.

Mango-topped smoked pork followed. The pink meat was full of flavor and was again a tribute to a typical national dish, with the candied mangoes pulling of the “gourmet twist” act on the dish. The last meat course was pollo guisado. The chicken cuts were cooked along with delicious Pan amanian guiso sauce. “Guisar” is also a verb used in Panama, to signify the cooking of meat in a sauce, as to add flavour to the dish. The homemade guiso sauce of Rene’s is commendable as a good way for tourists to expe rience typical Panamanian cooking.

Wine is available by the glass or by the bottle for $17 to $27. We selected a few bottles from the wall and decided that the Trivento Cabernet Savingion ($27) was by far the best in the house. Spar kling white wine is also available for celebrating special occasions. The servers were quite atten tive and saw to it that each guest in our large party was well attend ed. There was but one complaint: red onions should not be sliced in the open kitchen while guests are in the dining room because of the unpleasant effect it has on one’s eyes. Reservations are recom mended for the evenings and especially on weekends. I will be back to this restaurant, curious to find out what the lunch menu has to offer as well as with newcomers who will be thrilled to enjoy such a wide range of authentic Panama nian and international dishes in one setting for such a great price.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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Plaza Herrera, Casco Viejo
Reservations: 6722-7212 / 6842-0895

Food: ****1/2
Ambience: *****
Servicio: ****

Traditional Mexican gourmet — and fun!

Kiko, La Chilindrina and El Chavo are part of the magic at La Comedia.

Traditional Mexican gastronomy and entertaining shows are the recipe that Roberto Arana is using to create a new destination restaurant in Plaza Herrera, Casco Viejo. The dinner-only venue has been open for just two months and word is spreading like wildfire: La Comedia offers a wide range of food, from traditional street-style tacos to 21-day aged imported beef, accompanied by hilarious shows put on by a talented cast of actors interpreting everyone from Michael Jackson to the Mexican TV star “El Chavo”.

With a couple of margaritas and Coronas already on the table, we began our meal with some traditional starters: Frijoles Refritos — Refried Beans ($4.75) and Queso Fundido — Melted mozzarela ($4.50). The beans have a touch of garlic and the cheese (which must be eaten quickly while it is still manageable) is dressed up with jalapeño and chorizo (sausage).

La Comedia’s mission is not just to entertain, but to showcase traditional dishes, just as grandma used to make them. Sopa de Tortillas — Tortilla Soup ($6.80) is an excellent and flavourful starter, with the accompanying white cheese, avocado, julienned tortillas and onion served separately so the diner can add as much or as little as they wish to the broth. Huarache de Ceviche — Ceviche on crisp tortillas ($5.00) is a great dish for its flavor and value. The corvina fish comes tossed with sweet yellow corn, tomato and a touch of cilantro.

The Mexican Ambassador to Panama, Luz María de la Mora, left the restaurant at this point and sent her sincere praises to the chef for the authenticity of her meal. Molcajete ($22.00) is an impressive dish, served in a piping-hot traditional “macerador” (masher). Cuts of chicken, beef, cheese and sausage lay are semi-submerged in a traditional “mortajada” sauce made of a secret blend of grilled Mexican vegetables. This dish is great for sharing in a group. It comes with homemade tortillas.

For a main course, we tried Guachinango a la veracruzana ($26.00). The fillet of grilled pargo fish is served in a Veracruz-style sauce of white wine, Mexican peppers, capers, onion and olives. The presentation is fun; the head and tail of the fish are breaded, fried and served at opposite ends of the fillet. Inarguably at the top of the list was the Arrachera ($32.00). This is the prime cut of the skirt steak. The thin layer of fat is removed and the beef is aged at a controlled temperature in a secret marinade for 21 days. The result is a spectacularly tender cut of meat full of sweet flavor. It is also an enormous portion, but nevertheless the plate was clean when it returned to the kitchen.

Do not miss the tacos, step outside and watch them being prepared by master taco-makers.

Chef Oscar Rodriguez of La Valentina restaurant in Mexico is the culinary force behind the La Comedia. He has done extensive consulting to assure that the same standards are met at this restaurant as in La Valentina, known as the most authentic restaurant in all of Mexico.

But one can’t forget the Tacos ($4.50 for two)! Outside, a traditional taco stand is operated by master taco makers who catch a slice of pineapple on the taco as it flies through the air. The live entertainment is a great compliment to the atmosphere. Watch for Michael Jackson verses a Mariachi in a dance-off or “El Chavo” up to his antics during a meal.

We did not have room for dessert, but it is safe to say that one should only ask one of the well-dressed, attentive waiters for his personal reccomendation.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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Chef Daniel Manrique
Casual upscale Peruvian

Phone: (507) 391-9234
Calle Crisantemos No 16, on the corner at calle 68

Food: ****
Ambience: ****1/2
Service: ****1/2

Peruvian gastronomy is popular in Panama City. The combination of flavors found in Peru’s cuisine is the result of four continents blending. The country, and hence its food, is made up of Inca, Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, French and British descendants. The settlers continued using the original ingredients used by the Incas, creating what is considered to be one of the great cuisines of the world.

Chef Daniel Manrique, founder and owner of the Peruvian chain “Segundo Muelle”, was in Panama for a few days recently and The Visitor caught up with the busy chef and showman to learn about his restaurants, his passions and his plans for the future. “We have been received very well in Panama!” he said. His restaurant opened in the San Francisco neighborhood around eight months ago.

The interior of the restaurant is delightful: White walls accented with natural wood and welldressed waiters. The restaurant is neither formal nor pricey, but Panama City’s dining community maintains an upscale feel in the dining room, just with the dress and composure of the restaurant’s patrons.

“It has always been about the flavor and the quality here,” said Daniel “Never about too much presentation.” The chef insisted on preparing a round of pisco sours table side. His secret recepie for Peru’s signature cocktail is simple: Three parts “quebrante” (a Peruvian grape liqueur), one part lemon, one part “jarabe de goma” (a sugar reduction, a sweet syrup) and one part egg white. Shake with ice. The egg white does not affect the flavor or consistency of the drink, but it does create its own foam that tops off the drink. Some establishments add a dash of cinnamon at this stage, but we simply raised our chilled glasses. Salud!
The chef insisted on preparing a round of pisco sours table side.

The Piqueo Tres Cebiches ($24.00) has three different kinds of ceviche: “Segundo Muelle”, the house signature blends Peruvian peppers (rocoto, ají) in the leche de tigre (base marinade for all Peruvian ceviche) with fine-sliced red onions. “Mariscos a tres ajíes” is a mix of octopus, shrimp and squid in a creamy red sauce made with peppers. The chef explained that the spicy peppers are boiled and roasted before becoming part of the sauce, taking out nearly all the heat but leaving the flavors. The squid was delicate, fresh and tender. “Tradicional”, as the name implies, is made with white fish and lime juice.

Four main courses were shared, at Chef Daniel’s recommendation. Salteado Oriental ($12.50) is his favorite dish. Distinctively Asian, the deep fried fish, squid and shrimp are tossed with vegetables and topped with toasted sesame seeds. The light, delicate dish is served with white rice. Tacu tacu con lomo salteado ($16.00) is a very traditional dish. The tacu tacu is a mass made of pureed beans and rice. It was served with cubed beef and large slices of roasted red pepper.

Next we enjoyed the Arroz Thai ($16.00). This simple and delicious dish features prawns and beef served in white rice, accompanied with fried egg white. The simplicity of the dish was refreshing as each flavor stood on its own. Finally, in great contrast to the previous dish was Picante de Mariscos ($13.00). This dish combines shrimp, octopus and squid in a flavorful, creamy sauce that has lots of Peruvian peppers in it, with just a little kick of spice. It was served with white rice.

Dessert was the best. Classic Peruvian Suspiro $($($($( comes served in a martini glass. It is made with a combination of condensed milk and evaporated milk and has a caramel flavor and thick consistency. It comes topped with merengue. The portion is enourmous, almost too much for the four of us. Our group exchanged guilty glances as our spoons continued diving into the delicous treat. “Suspiro” means “sigh” in Spanish.

Chef Daniel gave us a sneak peek at the new menu he will be rolling out in mid-February. He has added a few new items and increased the pictures. The new menu is a three ring binder, with a full color photograph of each item. He has also brought in a new sous chef to oversee the kitchen as he travels between his restaurants in Peru, Mexico and Panama. “Quality here has been great, but we are going to kick it up a notch!” said the chef.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

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Located: at the top of the Miraflores Visitors Center at the Miraflores Locks

Phone: (507) 232-3120.
Food: ****1/2
Ambience: TBD
Service: ****

The Conchuelas a la Parmesana comes with a tangy vinagrette sauce.
Photo: Raisa Mar Kiener

The Miraflores Restaurant at the Panama Canal Miraflores Locks Visitor Center will have a whole lot more to offer the throngs of tourists visiting Panama in 2009. The restaurant, which is operated by the Hotel El Panama, is undergoing a menu change and a remodel right now. Gourmet fare, more view dining and a wine cellar are in the works at the New York Times-recommended venue, located right on the Canal.

The Quinoa con Pulpo was exceptional.
Photo: Raisa Mar Kiener

The buffet ($22) and a la carte menu are good, but perhaps the restaurant has relied on the view of ships making their transit of the locks as the main attraction, rather than the food. Peruvian chef Diego Garcia is about to change that with a new menu which will showcase local ingredients. By using coffee, maracuya or raspado (to name a few), the gourmetstyle creations will allow diners to enjoy autotano (authentic) flavors from a menu that would hold its own in any top international destination.

We enjoyed a four-course tasting of what is in store, beginning with Tataki de Tuna. The seared rare tuna, crusted in poppy seeds, is sliced and layered with camote (sweet potato) slices, served in a chilled Salsa Nikay, which combines Peruvian and Japanese flavors. Another appetizer was the Conchuelas (Scallops) a la Parmesana. The thin-sliced scallops were topped with parmesan cheese and a tangy vinagrette sauce. The presentation and combination of flavors of both dishes was excellent

Next were Langostinos en Sal (Salt Prawns). A wonderful presentation with uneven blocks of compacted sea salt, but the prawns were not of the quality that one expects.

Chef Diego Garcia presents one of his fantastic new creations.

My hope is that the chef will order fresh and plump shrimp when he officially rolls out the new menu. The coffee-pixbae salsa served with the dish was perfect, a flavorful combination of natural ingredients showcased on a gourmet level.

For our main course, the Quinoa con Pulpo was a treat. Atop a bed of quinoa (a Peruvian grain) was a slice of tender octopus bathed in Raspadura Barbeque sauce. Raspadura is a national product made of raw cane sugar, compressed into a round block. It is sold across the country and is a staple in many homes, used instead of white sugar because it is much more economical. It has a distinct flavor, due to the fact that the raw ingredient goes through less processing than conventional sugar. I applaud the use of the ingredient not only because the sauce was delicious, but because many visitors who may have come to Panama and never tried Raspadura now have the opportunity to do so, even when dining out at a high-end venue.

Dessert was just as good. Suspiro Brulee combines a classic Peruvian dessert, the Suspiro (a sweet custard) with the celebrated Crème Brule, in which the top of the pudding is crusted with hard, blow-torch burnt sugar. The dish came garnished with Guayaba con Algodon de Caramelo. The guayaba fruit cube was seared on the grill and topped with caramel cotton candy, creating not just a great presentation, but a delicious way to end a meal.

Chef Garcia informed The Visitor that the buffet will still be available under the new concept at the Miraflores Restaurant, and that the new gourmet menu will offer appetizers around $15 and entrees from $25 – $30.

Article courtesy of The Visitor Newspaper, Panama’s Tourism Newspaper.

For Reservations: 232-3120/21/22/23/24

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